Home?

I’ve been back in Canada for 3 full days.  And I feel weird.

“Life as usual” seems to be resuming; I have the cat back (even if she is a little miffed at me for being away for so long, or for taking her away from the super-awesome funtime at “grandma’s” house), I have groceries in my refrigerator and cupboards, am yoga’ing daily again, and was supposed to go back to work but was cancelled this morning.  I’m enjoying the relative relaxation of not having piles and piles of schoolwork to contend with.  But something feels off, still.

It may be jet-lag; my circadian rhythm took a huge hit, after adjusting to two different time zones (though my adjustment to NZ was not the most snappy), and then transiting for 30-ish hours in total, traveling “back” in time.  My sleep is wonky; I recall, after coming home from Ireland in March, sleeping so well after a few days, but I’m definitely having a lot of trouble adjusting (that said, Ireland and New Zealand are almost a world apart, so it would make sense that the adjustment would take longer).  I know my Jinan-crew is feeling it, too.

It may also be the fact that, mentally/emotionally, I have come across a lot on this trip.  Fleeting thoughts, realizations, written and not-yet-written, considerations.  Thoughts on my life, myself, my direction.  All these things are in there, floating around, making me feel untethered to the world, which is normal when travelling, as the untethering helps to appreciate the newness, the strangeness, lets one realize the fact that those who call whatever place this may be home don’t think it’s strange or new; it’s their everyday.  It feels like I have forgotten my everyday.  I felt like this after my first trip in the middle east, and it was unsettling.  More than unsettling, it was disturbing, because I didn’t know what to do with it.  Of course, it came at a time in my life when everything felt backwards, where the things that I’d been trying to desperately hide under the surface for so many years were breaking through, even if I didn’t really want them to.  I was shaken and afraid back then.  I don’t think I am now; I’m unsettled, untethered, but I know that it’s temporary, just as the circumstances of the next year of my life (school).  It’s a point to grow from, at least I hope.  I wonder if other people feel like this?  Is this a thing, this crash, hang-over like feeling, after travelling and coming up against so many new experiences, realizations?  Or is it just me, because I have all the feelings in the world?

Miles to go (before I sleep)

0200am, July 23, Christchurch (1000am, July 22, Toronto)

I am awake.  I didn’t have the world’s best sleep (always stressed), but at least my cab driver won’t have to deal with unwashed/unbrushed Allison.

0445, July 23, Christchurch (1245pm, July 22, Toronto)

One would think that airport shuttle company run by the New Zealand airline would know what time the airport opened.  Yesterday, while booking my car to the airport, the site would actually not let me book the time for when Tom and Jen told me would be fine (leaving theirs 0330, arriving for 0400).  So, I booked it for 0300 (still in the dreaded “red zone”, but the acceptable red zone apparently).  The driver was still there by shortly after 0230, and I made it to the airport by 0300 to find that check in doesn’t actually open until 0330.  Not just for my particular flight, but the entire check in area.  It has a large gate right across the front of it, barring anyone from passage.  So, fine.  I tried to use their little check in machines, which also wouldn’t let me check in!  So, again, fine.  I had to wait until the attendants arrived, for 0400.  Suddenly having loads of time to get a coffee, I sat for a bit, and finally went to check in at just before 0400.  All went well the second time around (apparently, they had to manually open the flight, which didn’t happen until someone actually arrived to the airport [so then WHY have check in open at 0330, if no one will be there until 0400?  The same reason the shuttle suggests you arrive 3h ahead of time, despite the fact the whole airport isn’t open *verytiredeyeroll*]), and I was off with my backpack to find security and my gate… which didn’t open until 0430.  Not as in there would be no one at the desk, but the actual security area didn’t even open until 0430.  It’s no matter, I was one of the first in line to get through and found a delightfully comfortable seat, which I KNOW will be far more comfy than the seat that I will be in for the next … I don’t even want to think about it.

Also, there’s an old man taking a selfie in the chair beside me 🙂

0900, July 23, Sydney (1900, July 22, Toronto; 1100, July 23, Christchurch)

I feel crappy.  I ate a sandwich, felt a bit better.  I ate a chocolate bar.  It was delicious, but I no longer felt better.  I’m also SUPER grumpy.  I feel a bit badly for whomever has to sit beside me for the next many hours/the CBSA person who has to deal with me and my chinese herbs in Vancouver.

Multiple time zones, somewhere over the Pacific ocean.

It’s 7pm in Christchurch, midnight in Vancouver (first stop of this flight, where I have to get off, get my bags, clear Canadian customs, and hope to god I make my flight to Toronto), and 3am in Toronto.  Obviously, it’s a good time for a gin and tonic.

I have a window seat and an empty seat beside me.  There is a woman in the aisle seat (who hasn’t gotten up a single time to pee in the last 6 hours – how is this even possible???  Does she have a catheter in situ??), but it’s pretty close to ideal for economy flight.  I’ve also watched 3 movies so far (Jumangi, The Disaster Artist, and The Royal Tenenbaums, which is at this point my least favourite Wes Anderson movie, but the dogs are adorable and I will always love Ben Stiller).

0800, July 23 (still!), Vancouver

I’m planted in Canadian soil.  I can use my own phone and won’t be charged for roaming; I won’t get charged international funds fees for using my credit or debit card.  I have 4 more hours in a plane to go.

And CBSA is okay with my Chinese medicines!

1640, July 23, Toronto

Baggage collected, on the train.  I almost died about halfway through the flight and had the quickest wink of sleep over Manitoba, which I think is just enough to get me home.  I’m almost home.

2045, July 23, Toronto (1200, July 24, Christchurch) [LATE ENTRY – forgot to update]

My home is put back together (I had repairs done in the bedroom while away, and had to move everything out; it no longer looks like I’m a hoarder or something), and I finally get to sleep.

South as South Could Be (in NZ)

Last night, Jen, Tom, the kids, and I went to Te Oka Bay, which is on the very southern tip of New Zealand.  To one who is a Northern Hemisphere’er, think the opposite; while we think of south as getting closer to hot, it’s getting farther from hot here.  Tom’s family has a house in Te Oka, a small bachelor house (“bach”) along a lonely road that houses what seems like only 2 or 3 houses in total.  It was secluded as secluded could be, and chock full of sheep and cows.  Violet (and Tom) threw rocks in the water at the beach to splash me, Jen found a rock that looked like a heart, Jen and I drank two-thirds of a bottle of wine (which has been the most of this trip, thanks to 4 of the 5 humans in this house having a cold), and I climbed some rocks and ran along the bay.  We ate vegan food to the nines.  Violet (and Tom) went to bed before 2100, and I got a bit scared of the seclusion (too many horror movies in my teen years means I kept thinking some horrible ghost/serial killer would try to sneak in the windows that don’t have screens).  I got a tour (by a 2 year old) of a true woolshed (no longer in use).  It was nothing short of absolutely lovely.

And just like that, my trip seems to be coming to an end.  We drove back this morning, tried to get little humans down for a nap (that didn’t work out for the best, exactly), and took a trip to the Tannery, an adorable shopping and eatery area where Jen, Oscar, and I meandered through adorable shops (I finally bought a pair of wool mitties, even though I leave tomorrow) and hung out at The Brewery, a pub in the Tannery that hosts small shows on Sunday afternoon and The Sunday Roast (which we did not partake in, but ordered pizza instead).  Violet danced a bit, we had a few drinks, Oscar drooled, and I have breakfast for my VERY early flight tomorrow.

I’m a bit of two minds.  I’m excited to get back to regular life, for a few weeks before school starts up again.  I’m excited to see my cat, and be in my home.  I’m looking forward to going back to work, making money again.  But I’m sad to be finishing my adventure, to be going home.  I’m sad to leave Jen and Tom, and I know the next time I see Violet and Oscar, they’ll be totally different little people.  I’ll miss the adventure that comes with travel.  I’m excited to sleep in my own bed, though I’ve been pretty lucky with beds in the last 3 weeks.  I’m excited to have all my things in drawers or closets.  I’m sad to have to wear work clothes.  I’m excited to wear my most comfy scrubs.  I’m sad to go back to holding infants who have EKG leads on, if not more, in a place where it’s frowned upon to bring them up to a bar (full disclosure: I went to order a second drink with Oscar in my arms so Jen could finish her wine).  I’m going to miss baby cuddles, debates with Jen, Tom’s food, and Violet’s giggles.  I’m not overly looking forward to getting up for a 5:45am flight.  But I am very excited to have a toilet in my bathroom, proper insulation, and central heating/air conditioning.  And to be as far from squatting toilets as one can possibly be.

New Zealand – So close (but no cigar)

I’ve been in New Zealand for now 44 hours.  Did you know how mountainous this place is????

It’s been a slow return to normal; New Zealand, being a commonwealth country (an english speaking commonwealth country) is very similar to Canada.  With the exception of driving on the left (wrong) side of the road and all the palm trees, I feel like this could be somewhere in Canada.  We (Jen, Tom, and I) got into a discussion of it yesterday evening; the differences are few (especially coming from China), but they are there and, as Jen was telling me, can take you by surprise.

We drove yesterday to the wineries of Canterbury and Hamner Springs.  The wine made here is crisp and stoney (Tom’s word), reminding me somewhat of the wine from PEC or the Niagara Peninsula region, but almost more refined.  I bought a few and, since I can only take one bottle back, clearly I have to force us all to drink them.  We went to the springs this morning with Violet, Tom and Jen’s two year old daughter, running around between hot springs in the NZ winter (no snow, but certainly brisk, especially later in the evening and early in the morning).  On the drive back, almost everyone napped.

After the busy-ness of last week and the hectic two days of travelling, it’s nice to have the time to relax.  I get to play with Violet and Oscar, one of the most chill 4 month olds I’ve met, pet Bonnie-cat, and relax with Jen and Tom.  And sleep!

China – July 4 – 16

The Chinese government blocks many Western sites, for reasons of which there are probably many.  As a result, I could not actually access my blog over the last week and a half while away.  Many travellers and some Chinese people obtain VPNs to have access, and I had one on my phone to stay in touch, but it wouldn’t work on my computer.  The following is my ongoing reflections on the last 11 days.

 

July 4 – Au Chine

And I’m off!  I’m not entirely sure how where the time went, but it’s here, off to China and New Zealand for the next nearly 3 weeks.

It’s going to be interesting.  I’m nervous, more nervous than I can recall being for travel in the last little while.  Maybe it’s because I don’t speak or understand any language spoken in Beijing (with exception of English, though I’ve heard that even that is not as common as I originally thought).  Maybe it’s because I’ve never been to any country in Asia.  Maybe because, even though I think I dotted every “i” and crossed every “t”, I’ve been losing my mind and not actually checking to make sure I did things correctly the last 10 months, in “getting shit done” mode, as my program requires.  Maybe it’s because I’m really, really tired and there is a part of me that kind of just wants to stay home and sleep.  Maybe it’s all of those things combined, and things I haven’t even realized.

It’ll be an experience.  I may or may not be able to post while in China (firewalls for most western sites), but will write up my (mis)adventures and upload them all when I arrive to Australia or New Zealand.

 

July 6 – 24-hour (and a bit) impressions

It’s different here.

(Right.  It’s China.  Captain obvious).

Yes, it’s different– a totally different culture, in almost every way, from Canada,  different language, different societal set-up, almost everything down to the bones of it.  But there’s more than just the outside appearance.  It feels different.

I arrived yesterday on a 4pm flight, and after being first held in what felt like a pen for no apparent reason, I made it to the hotel by 6pm.  The trip by taxi was fast, and it was certainly not the most scared I’ve felt in a taxi yet (winner of that race is Turkey!).  I spend the evening in the hotel pool, trying to stay awake long enough to not wake up at 3am.

This morning, I walked.  This afternoon, I walked.  This evening, I walked. (I walked a lot)  I first walked the Lama Temple, a beautiful temple of Buddist monks, still in function.  There were no less than 10 different buildings/pavilions, each housing at least one, often multiple statues of Buddha.  There are no other words but calm to describe it.  The walk took just under 2 hours to get there, so I made a bit of a meander on my way home, as the weather got hot through the day, and spent time in the Jingzhang gardens, a large beautiful garden surrounding 5 buddhist pavilions on top of a large hill.  This evening, I walked back toward the Goutou* district, 30 minutes away from the Lama Temple, for what I thought would be a beer and dinner at a brewery; in actuality, while they did have beer, I had to get my dinner elsewhere, and made use of the street-side noodle shops around the corner (3 hours, no GI issues; probiotics are working!).

The architecture of the old temples and buildings is in what my untrained eye considers classical Chinese design; I’m sure that there a are varied nuances from each dynasty, but I don’t know enough.  It moves beyond the large historical or official buildings, as well; even along the alleyways, or Hutongs, where Beijingers live, their doors are sometimes built with intricate carvings, or with large dragon-head knockers.

One thing that’s surprised me is the lack of people I was expecting to see.  For a country and city as large as this, I was expecting to see people absolutely everywhere, and I have not!  I also tried to stay a bit off the beaten path for usual tourist destinations, so that may have helped.

Also: Bing is the search engine allowed for anglo “aliens” like me.

July 7 – 0400…

I’m awake.  I went to bed exhausted, but didn’t want to take a sleeping pill, as I’d had two beers, and was worried I’d be too out.

I slept SO WELL Thursday night.  DAMN YOU JET LAG!!!  To be fair, there was also some weird high-pitched noise coming out of the air conditioner that woke me up.  It’s the jet lag that is keeping me awake.

July 8 – Departures (Part 1)

Friday was a good day.  I appreciated it at the time, but don’t think I communicated it so wonderfully.

I had the opportunity to stop, take moments to try and “be” throughout the day.  I had the opportunity and privilege to do so.  Often, I am the only western/white person in an area, and attract a fair bit of attention, as well as a lot of questionable requests (“Take photo?”  No, not will you take a photo of me or my family and I, but can I take a photo of you).  I stand out a lot, almost every moment, but it’s also a bit freeing, if that makes sense?  I was watched, but I don’t think I was scrutinized, something that seems the opposite of at home, where I feel at times scrutinized, but not watched, in an open, observing sense.

I was essentially alone in a city of millions of people.  There is overall little English spoke and understood here; it reminded me of Turkey, where I was among throngs of people, but was an island unto myself.  It meant that, while I was watched, I could also watch.  I could wander the Hutongs in which people live and just look.  I could sit and watch people at the various sites I visited, those at the Lama temple praying to Buddha, people on the subway (also – I took the subway!!!!  I survived, and actually did well!), people in the brewery I visited, on the streets.  I could observe, and see.

I wasn’t as alone as I expected, though.  While sitting in the hotel hot tub after my looooooong as walk on Friday evening, before going out for dinner, this little 10-year-old Chinese girl turned to me and started a conversation about where I am from and why I am here in some of the most perfect English I have heard, including in Canada!  It was a lovely interaction.  Later that night, while getting ready to eat my street noodles (honestly, the best damn noodles I’ve ever eaten in my life, and I ate them with chopsticks and everything!) in this amazing brewery I found in the Dongchen neighbourhood (Great Leap Brewery – highly, highly, highly recommended if you happen to be in Beijing), I was invited to join a table of some expats, including one from Paris, one from the UK, and one from Quebec!  I even got an opportunity to practice my French (though, as usual, as soon as I struggled, the Parisian and Quebequois immediately switched to full English.  But practice is how I learn!).  I finished my noodles, and my second beer, and then meandered home.

Today, I am heading to Jinan for the course.  I’m excited; I’m excited to begin the course, the whole reason I’m here (in all honestly, China was never on my list of places I wanted to visit; I’m sure more on that later).  I’m also excited to be with other people.  Though I do like travelling alone, for the privacy, the experience, the time to collect myself and my thoughts (and after the last 10 months of school and life, there are MANY), I’m lonely.  It will also help with navigating this place where the only words I know are “hello” and “thank you” and the knowledge of English is overall rare.

 

July 8 2018

A friend of mine has said that the things you’re worried about are never the things that go wrong.

I was worried about the train to Jinan (actually, I’m REALLY worried about the train to Beijing and the transfer to the airport, but that’s a story for another day).  I was able to get some sleep yesterday night (two sleeping pills and a meditation session later), made it to the gym, checked out of the hotel, and made it to the station with a whole lotta time to spare.  The train was NOT the problem.

I arrived to Jinan and was ready to relax.  Not quite the case, as the wait for a taxi was (inexplicably) an hour.  Once I got into the taxi, despite providing the address of (at least) the nursing building of the university in Chinese, I was dropped off in front of the hospital.  I attempted to ask if this was the correct place, and I think I was told yes, or ultimately just get tf out of my cab.  Wondering if, perhaps as in older days where there is a dormitory for some medical staff on site, I went into the hospital, and attempted to ask a security guard where I was.  No avail, or at least he couldn’t communicate to me where to go.  The thing I’ve realized (and perhaps it’s an aspect of privilege that I have never thought of, not being able to understand someone even remotely, or being in a place where English is so barely spoken, having a conversation is a rarity), despite doing what I thought is the international shrug of “I don’t speak your language”, people here continue to talk at me, only louder and faster; at times, despite my clear inability to speak Chinese, they point at something (in Chinese) as if to say, here this will obviously clear up any questions you have.  It’s comical in good times, and, as this was not a good time, as I was feeling completely lost, confused, and tired, upsetting.  I definitely took my phone back from this security guard and walked away holding back tears, but he kindly walked after me, with someone who spoke some English to try and was able to explain to me that the university was across the street.  So, I made it to the campus.  Now where was the building?  Hey, I’ll call the director of the program, she’ll help me.  Yeah, not so much; she told me to find someone on the campus walking along and give my phone to them, so THEY could explain to me where to go (WTF?!), and still, we had great problems.  And that was just GETTING to the international dorms… which were … pretty not okay.  There was no mattress.  There was a large crack along the side of the wall that was covered with packing tape.  I thought, for a few moments, that, okay, I can do this, it’s free.  And then I turned on my data to check our group whatsapp, as there was something about “Your friends saw the place and went somewhere to live”; the other girls had found an air bnb after seeing the situation.  DONE!  There was a moment of “You know, things have been worked out, there have been arrangements made, it would be rude to leave right now.”  There was also a moment of “I cannot sleep here for a WEEK”.

The travel to get to the air bnb was another challenge, but before I move onto that, once I arrived, we (the other U of T students and I) were discussing the privilege of our coming from an area of the world where, yes, those conditions ARE bad.  To some people, including those who are staying there now, they are not bad conditions; there is air conditioning, there is sanitation (albeit not overly sanitized…), there is safety.  These are things that I take for granted, and that is a privilege.  I feel a bit awkward, and a bit guilty stating that I don’t want to live in this kind of situation, and I don’t have anything else to say to contradict that.

So, the getting TO the new air bnb.  Lindsey texted me the address IN CHINESE, yet 5 different people, 3 taxi drivers, 1 security guard (the SAME one), and one random old woman STILL had no idea where I was going!  Finally, one (younger) taxi driver nodded, which I took for “yep I know this area”.  GREAT!  Not quite so much.  The ride itself was 13 yuan, but there was an additional 16 yuan in the driver going little bits and then running out of the car to talk to people.  TF?!?  HOW is one a taxi driver and does not know where they are going?  He finally got stuck, and then (and then?!?!) looked up the address on his phone gps (WHY did he not do this in the first place?!?!), it would have been easier to walk, and so I did.  I wandered, and wandered through these streets, and finally found my people (hilariously, I realized it was them because they were trying to call me and I heard my own voicemail!).  FINALLY!!!!

Things were alright again.  The area we’re staying, the Lixia district, is ADORABLE.  And about a 30-minute walk from the school, so not too far at all, a little more than a walk to work.  It’s cozy, and by cozy I mean there are 5 women in a place with 2 double beds and a couch, but it’s better than the alternative.

So, we shall see how the rest of the week goes.  At the very least, it will make for a story…

 

July 12, 2018 – 4 days

I’m not entirely sure how I got from arrival to now; 4 days have flown by in what has seemed like the blink of an eye.  Our days have been filled with the course, which has taken up 8-9 hours (sometimes more) each day starting at 0730-0800, plus travelling time, both to the school from our air bnb and then to the respective hospitals.  Our evenings have been often spent wandering the night market, which is basically a stone’s throw away from the apartment.  We have been treated like honoured guests in every University building, every hospital department and clinic, and every home we’ve entered.  It’s been interesting, this moving from the feeling that there is a lack of consideration and rudeness, to the realization that these people are actually some of the most welcoming, generous, and hospitable people I have ever encountered, but who move in the world so incredibly differently than I am used to.  That particular realization has been … eye opening.

There are still challenges with language – some are of the sweet side (when an older Chinese woman walks up to you in the middle of the park and basically carries on a conversation with you in Chinese, not seeming to mind that you don’t actually speak Chinese!) to the (still) frustrating and/or shocking (being yelled at in and then kicked out of a cab, after 4 drive by you) to the anxiety-provoking (being lost and realizing that there are few people who can actually help you).  This trip has also made me feel very small in the world, both in terms of being the visible minority (at least obvious visible minority) for the first time in my life to being stared at openly or having complete strangers take photos of me/us, or ask to take photos with them or their children, because seeing a white person is just so odd.  It’s been an experience, to say the least, and I am so happy to say that it’s turned into a really, really good one.

 

July 13 2018 – The Healthcare

The whole reason that I came to China was for an international exchange program.  There was not a lot of information that came across; this is the first year for the program in this iteration, thus the relatively lose structure, but the basic premise has been to expose international nurses and nursing students to Chinese healthcare and culture.  As we learned on our first day, the school is in the later stages of developing a connection with the University of Texas, for a graduate-level global healthcare course, and the initial stages of re-initiating a connection with U of T… so it’s us 5 Canadians and a LOT of Texans (15).  Makes for an interesting mix!

Our first day was an introduction to Shandong University, followed by two days in the hospital (Cheeloo Hospital and Shandong Provincial Hospital), a morning in a community health centre in a less resourced area of Jinan, a day at Shandong Museum, and finally a full day at the Shandong Provincial Hospital of Traditional Chinese Medicine.  Throughout the week, I have been almost overwhelmed with the degree of hospitality offered by those we encounter in each unit.  We have been fed until stuffed, given candy, water, engaged in heartfelt and open discussions about their hospital and our own.  We have been afforded opportunity to experience things like I’d never even imagine I could see at home – we were walked through a cath lab for a PCI procedure, allowed to observe and then experience Chinese medical treatments (I had acupressure beans, cupping, AND acupuncture), and were even brought on a home visit.  One concern I had was that those involved would be more “voluntold” that they are having us in their procedure, their home, but more than anything else, we have been welcomed more than I could imagine.  Yesterday, while participating in a home visit for (as we were told to call them) Ms Chan and Grandfather Lo, we were greeted with literal open arm, and they had set out bananas, peaches, chestnuts, and peanuts for us, and kept making us tea.  More than offering hospitality, they were ecstatic we were there.  The hospital staff provide us with information on their site (each unit, even!), and share the accolades they have received.  They offer us information on their staffing model, their positive outcomes, and their unit structure.  What comes across so interestingly is how proud they are of their work and employer; it’s not arrogance (“we’re the best, obvi!”) but genuine pride.  The distinction may be small, but is clear.

Another striking realization is how the medical system has begun to blend western and traditional Chinese medicine.  While I don’t discount TCM or other more traditional practices (of many origins), I still place most of my trust in Western style medicine; or, maybe better stated, I believe more traditional practices have a place separate from western medicine.  While I don’t believe I would throw off Western medicine, the last few days have been a huge eye opener.  One TCM doctor was able to tell immediately that I suffer from insomnia and don’t eat lunch (how did he know?!?!?!); and today, by application of acupressure “beans”, the chronic pain in my shoulder decreased by the most I can think of in the last 7 years and many western physical therapy practitioners.

 

July 15 – The People

Part 1 – People of China

I think I have said a lot about my experiences with the people of China, and the somewhat interesting realizations I have made about their culture, interactions, values.  It’s different – than I’m used to and from what I’ve seen in my travels overall.  I will also somewhat embarrassingly admit that I knew relatively little of the country’s history before coming (but I can tell you SO MUCH about the acute abdomen in a sexually active adolescent female and the relation of the social determinants of health, particularly housing, to one’s health and offer some individual and policy-level suggestions for action).

Some things are frustrating – there is no proverbial wiggle room, a seemingly cultural low tolerance for doing things differently.  There is this magical app, WeChat, that literally everyone uses for almost everything.  It’s a combination of messaging (FB or Whatsapp), pictures (Instagram), ApplePay or some other mobile payment service, and I don’t even know what else, all in one.  And there is very, VERY little use of non-Chinese credit cards.  You pay by WeChat (which appears to only link with Chinese accounts) or cash (IF they accept it where you are going), or you’re screwed.  There is no other option, by and large.  Moreover, it’s almost as if the people of China don’t actually understand that we cannot use WeChat!  I got the response of “How do you pay for things??” more than once.  This does, however, make more sense when you consider that a number of Chinese people don’t actually leave China.  Almost as though they don’t realize that there is a different world outside their borders (which makes even MORE sense when one considers that it has been only a century since the country was open to foreigners and that many western sites are blocked in China).

Also, squatting toilets, no TP (however, I got mah squats in!!!).

Some things are gross – spitting (HOARKING) all the damn time.  Pee splash gosh darn everywhere in the washrooms (squatting toilets), and no soap.  Many infants and toddlers do not wear diapers so they are taught to literally piss and shit in the street, or are held over garbage cans (HOW people know when a baby needs to pee/poo does however amaze me).  And the fa-cking HEAT.  We all sweat through our everythings on a daily basis.

Some things are humbling – there is a hospitality, a generosity, I have never known.  We were welcomed with open arms to Shandong University (… once we found the place), each healthcare centre we visited, and in the community in which we stayed.  On Friday evening, we went into a tea shop because a woman was creating Chinese calligraphy scrolls and ended up staying for 2 and a half hours, as the owner and shop keep wanted to welcome us, offered us a short but free calligraphy lesson as we were going to be out of town on Saturday, when they hold the classes, offered us tea and food, created some beautiful scrolls for some of the girls and then insisted we not pay, and encouraged us to try on some dresses and take photos (photos, in general, are a THING here!).  Just yesterday morning, when heading out for some shopping, we somehow ended up in a seven-tea ceremony in a local art and tea store!!  When and where does that even happen?!?!

Also, the limited English is humbling.  It can certainly be frustrating, especially when I’m feeling utterly stranded (which has happened more than once), but it’s a reminder that I came unprepared.  People get very angry when those coming to Canada, either to live or sometimes to travel, don’t understand English.  Well, I came to China knowing only two words – hello and thank you.  Each time I have somehow found a way to converse with someone (what did we do before translating apps??), I have felt more and more grateful that they didn’t dismiss me, as I fear some people do in Canada.  Each person we encountered who spoke English was often so embarrassed by their skills – and yet, their skills were far from limited and were significantly better than mine.

In an even bigger way, I feel humbled by my luck and privilege for having the ability and opportunity to come, to see this part of the world.  Some of the other students did not realize what an amazing opportunity they, both as individuals and as a free people, had in having this opportunity to come and see this part of the world, to experience an entirely new culture and LEARN from it.  Certainly not all, there were a number of my delegate colleagues who did, or at least were on the way to realizing it, but the ones who did not, or who would dismiss something important in the Chinese culture because it didn’t make sense to them, became frustrating and disheartening.  Not only do we as North Americans have the freedom to be welcomed here, we have the financial ability, even if it may stress the finances to some degree.  I realize that I am privileged, so much more than so many other people in the world.

Some things are funny… see below (“#tshirtsofchina).

Part 2 – My U of T colleagues (alternative subtitle: 5 girls 1 bathroom)

The U of T delegation came as 5 separate women, and left as friends (aaaaawwwwwww).

I departed knowing 1 other person reasonably well (a work colleague in the NICU), 1 other person okay (a NP colleague in my pediatrics section); the other 2 I did not know (and the fifth was ME!).  We all met on Sunday, at the new place (or, for Cheri, on the street by a restaurant) and begun our adventure of being together almost every moment of every day.  We were 5 women in a 2 bedroom apartment with one bathroom (and one shower), dealing with jetlag, lack of sleep, waking daily at 5 or 5:30am.  Our shower leaked and our toilet clogged (but only AFTER 3 people had left, leaving Lindsay and I to deal with the literal mess… you jerks 😉).  And somehow, we survived.  Not only survived, but had a truly wonderful time.  We shared the honour in being welcomed to the units, the exhaustion and difficulty of staying awake during our third presentation of the day on 4 or 5 hours of sleep, and more laughs than I can count, the hangries, the tangries, and the general small annoyances of being around the same people and their quirks for nearly a week straight.  We were women who perhaps would never have met or come together otherwise, but I am truly so thankful that we have.

Next time, though, two bathrooms (at least).

 

July 15, 2018 – #tshirtsofchina

I began to note them on arrival into Beijing.  It’s a STYLE – english words/phrases on t-shirts, sometimes with pictures, sometimes without, sometimes with appropriate translations…. Sometimes not so much.  Some of the gems are below.

“God save the “ (… that’s it.  God save the what????)

“Therapy” with a VERY poorly placed space (making it The rapey)

“Wednesday” (on a Friday)

“Beat it creep”

“Everyone should be feminist” (TWICE!!  Yes.  However, one of the shirts read “shoulO”.  So close!)

“Just young life”

“Sunday” (on a Tuesday)

“Life is & cemetery full”

“The 1950”

“There is no one alive who is youer than you” (I like the sentiment, though)

“Don’t hurt your “ (Don’t hurt your what?!?!?!?!  Stop leaving me hanging!!!)

“Butter”

“Reanut Butter” (ALL the butters, including the reanuts)

“What happen?”

“Reach for the moon the door opens into a smaller room”

“You contrct your own life”

“So elegant all be beautiful”

“Things” (Just things)

“Five more minutes” (with a cartoon of an egg under a strip of bacon for a blanket!)

“Favorite Bestaurants in London” (They’re the best, so they’re bestaurants)

“Just can’t” (with an upside down Nike swish under it)

“Less stress More sex” (on a CHILD!!!!)

“My ex died”

“I don’t want your body but I’m picturing your body with “ (I’m starting to feel like they just don’t want to finish these sentences.  Leave me in suspence)

“I wish you a happy with me”

“Surive”

“Looking for not common”

And finally,

“Saturday” on Sunday.  (So close!!!!)

 

July 16 – Transit.  It makes for a good story, eventually.

Sunday evening (anticipating problems) – Wanted to change my train to an earlier time, to avoid running through Beijing airport.  Train station doesn’t take cash, just Chinese credit cards and WeChat.  Train stations minds boggled that I could buy a ticket, as I don’t have a Chinese credit card (literally was asked, “How did you do that?”).  Cancelled my ticket, who knows if I will ever see the refund.

Chinese uber (Didi) didn’t work when coming home from train on Sunday.  Wondered if it was blocked in high-taxi areas (i.e., train stations, airports, etc), so to not take business away.  Took taxi.

Attempted to book in the cab en route back to the apartment.  Was blocked.  Feeling as though I should start looking at apartments in Jinan instead, because apparently I am never leaving.

Got home, and within the 40-minute cab ride, my cancellation went through, and I was able to rebook, though only first class tickets available.  Desperate times.

Met Lindsey for our last night of night market and duck burrito.  All was right in the world, for that moment.

Monday – woke up STUPIDLY early (0425).  Linds woke up with an eye issue that needed to be dealt with immediately, so got her sorted to go to ER (she made her flight out thank HEAVENS).  Left the apartment at 0510, Didi STILL not working (WTF?!?!).  Thinking again I should just live here, because the forces are clearly conspiring against me to leave. Somehow managed to explain my issue to the shopkeeps of the little market that I’ve been getting breakfast from the last few days (they don’t speak English, I don’t speak Chinese.  There was lots of pointing.) and one used her Didi app to order a taxi for me (it worked for ALL the other girls, except me, because of course).  Arrived to the train station, got my ticket, found the gate, got on the train (very comfy seats, and better snacks than in economy class).  MADE IT to Beijing.

Made it to their airport with a shuttle bus that went RIGHT by my hotel (would have been amazing to know about before, but the only way I knew about it was a Chinese man who took 20 yuan from me to show me (I decided not to care, because it was $4 CAD and I would NOT have found it otherwise.  I’m calling it a shower’s fee, like a finders fee, but he was showing me).  I had to ask no less than 5 people how to find the check in desks, went through security (I kid you not) 3 times to get there, before realizing that the airport is NOT at all set up like Pearson (or almost any other airport I’ve ever been in, with exception of the CDG airport in Paris), and everything is OUTSIDE security.  Luckily, I and some of the other passengers from my flight (Aussies) were able to sneak back out to eat food after having checked our bags, and were not stuck in the security area for 4 hours (or so we thought!) without food.

Ate my last China noodles (sad-face), got a water, a coke zero, and a chocolate bar (it’s okay, I’m on vacation now!), and went back to sit by the gate with what I thought was an hour’s wait til departure.

We were delayed by 6 hours.  For rain.

Okay, it was intermittent heavy rains, so it’s not like it was a little sunshower, and the rains were apparently quite bad south of Beijing, right across our flight path.  But, rain.  There was nowhere to buy food, but there was a bathroom and a few filtered water stations; at hour 4, the ground staff also brought in dinner for us, but had no idea when we would actually be able to board.  Maybe I should call the Shandong University Nursing school deputy dean, I’m sure she’d hire me for something, because apparently I am NEVER leaving.

 

We boarded at just past 8:15 or so.  Two hours to Nanjing, where everyone had to get off, and those continuing on to Australia had go through “I’m leaving China” customs (what even is that??), and then get back on the plane, this time with a number of people who were new to our flight.

Most of the entire time, I was counting the hours, with the hope that I’d still make my connecting flight to NZ.  I had originally planned a luxurious few hours in one of the lounges, where I’d shower and eat (and drink!) all the things; now I was just praying we’d leave before 2300, so I could actually MAKE my flight.  We must have made up time on the way, because we arrived only 4 or so hours after we should have, despite departing 6 hours late.

 

The part that bugs me is this: the travelling out of the country put a sour note on what became a lovely cultural experience.  It seems as if the Chinese people are so welcoming, so helpful, so friendly, except when it comes to thing A, B, or C (of which one is traveling, both in/out of the country and around the country, and likely a few other things); for these things, there is so much rigidity, and little acceptance or consideration of outsiders (i.e., foreigners, travellers).  It’s conform or sorry-not sorry.  It was enough, as I was repacking my carry on for the third time yesterday, to question if I would ever come back here.  There are also things that don’t make sense!  I went through a bag XR going to get my ticket (and again after I snuck out); I went through the usual pull all my things out, frisky-frisk getting to the gate.  There is nothing IN the gate except water.  And yet, leaving the country, I had to do it all over again!  Where, I ask you China, between gate 90, after you’ve scanned me, and the plane, could I have picked up something ilicit, other than the bottle of water that we were given for dinner, that was over 100mL?  It’s not rational, it seems to me… though, when I arrived here in Sydney, I had to go through the transfer security again, so who even knows (…Bryan.  Bryan knows).

And now, I’m awaiting my next flight to see Jen, Tom, and the kids in NZ.  I made it.  I had tons of time, enough to buy a big water bottle, eat some lunch, buy some lozenges for my head cold that I somehow picked up (likely when we finally relaxed on Sunday, after a long week, and, before that, a long 10 months).  I can talk to people without an excessive level of gesticulation (just my normal amount of gesticulation).  I can READ PACKAGES!  I’m just hoping that the NZ folks don’t take my TCM package I was given by the Shandong TCM hospital that I completely forgot about (it’s for health and safety, two things that I could totally use right now and in general).  It’s not fruit! I also got a fair sleep on the plane (around 6.5-7 hours, not the deepest sleep, but a good amount), have already picked up some Tam Tams, and had a cider, along with special cookies from Vivi and Jen awaiting me in NZ.  Now that the trials of my travel out of China are over, I’m just left with the story and my own reflections on it all.

Good sleeps, cemeteries, and distilleries

It’s pretty amazing what actually sleeping can do!  I woke yesterday slowly, but was able to get my run in AND make it for a very long wander around the north (and very north) end.  I made my run destination Phoenix Park, the largest park in Dublin, akin to Hyde park in London.  It was lovely and fairly deserted for 10:30 (plus…) in the morning, though I did make some Dubliners walking their dog weirded out or confused at my HIIT workout in the middle of the park.  Beautiful and green, filled with ponds and areas to sit and relax, my run was a good way to see it without making it a stop separately.

Photo 2018-03-21, 10 35 37 AM (1)

The view from Phoenix Park looking west

The National Botanic Gardens and Glasnevin Cemetery are located north of the downtown area, but not too far a walk; no more than 30 minutes from where I’m staying.  I have never tried to deny that I’m odd; I like big, old cemeteries (I blame my Nana for bringing me when I was younger, and wondered if it’d be like Pere Lachaise in Paris) and, though I have the brownest thumb in the world, I enjoy plants.  And, much like the galleries and museums, both are free to wander around in, making my student budget quite happy.  The gardens are composed of both outdoor paths lined with plants and indoor greenhouses.  It was a chilly day, but I made my way around the paths and warmed up in the greenhouse, including the DELIGHTFUL palm tree house.  I also learned a thing or two (… just one thing: my orchids and desert plants stop flowering because they need a dip in the temperature, as they’d have outside!  Because that’s what happens in the desert!  Thanks, orchid house!).

I ALSO got a possible idea of the sense of humour of some of the folks who work at the National Botanic Gardens.  Look closely…

You best believe that I was saying “Oh, hi, Jenny” every time I saw daffodils.  Actually every time.  Don’t you wish you were here with me?  I’m hilarious.

The cemetery was interesting.  As I’d mentioned, I was thinking it’d be like Pere Lachaise, massive and rambling, and full of celebrities.  Rather than celebrities (though it DOES hold James Joyce’s dad), revolutionaries were of point.  It was unexpected, but the more I thought about it, the more it made sense.  Though, at this point, we (and I mean the proverbial royal we, non-Irish) think of [the Republic of] Ireland as merry, full of leprechauns, green, Liam Neeson, but we forget that at the turn of the 19th century, they were in a massive revolution.  Not having a strong mind for history (at least academically), I won’t make a guess, but I would estimate that a massive many people lost/gave their life for betterment of their country and acceptance of Catholicism.  There was a large monument close to the front gate for revolutionaries who died in the Easter Rising.  I had no clue what that was, and was able to read a bit about it.  We, at least I, think of Northern Ireland as being the dangerous one, the politically charged one, but forget about the bloody history.  The only gravesite I made a point of visiting was the one of Hannah Sheehy Skeffington, a notable Irish suffragist, author, and revolutionary.

It was rather empty come evening; I went out to Parnell Square for dinner and took a bit of a walk, despite being in heels, along the Liffey.  I *may* have walked through the red light district (if not, there were a LOT of sketchy looking sex shops), but came out unscathed and walked by a place that I think I may try for dinner tonight!

This morning, I took a looooong walk to the south end for breakfast and in attempt to see St Patrick’s cathedral (jumped ship when I realized they were charging a fair bit for entry.  I’m Catholic; I don’t pay to get into church).  I went on from there to the Jameson distillery on Bow St to take a tour and barely made the noon start time.  One thing that somewhat surprised me: I forgot to bring my student card, but they have student pricing.  I told the woman at the desk that though I’m a student, I don’t have my card, almost ready to try to pull out my phone and prove it with emails or something (as I’d done in NY for some of the museums), she just said, “Oh, no, I trust you”.  I’m trustworthy, certainly, but what does it say that I don’t expect people to trust me??  The tour I took was interesting, but mostly went over the history and the production process, rather than really TOURING the distillery, which would have been the most interesting for me.  Perhaps on one of the other tours actually goes through the distillery itself.  It was still interesting, and I learned about the history of Irish whiskey, got to partake in a tasting, AND realized that I can’t speak Gaelic (“Slainte!” does not have a hard “T” at the end of it.  Nope.  It was like being in 11th grade reading a Prayer for Owen Meany out loud all over again with “Bishop Strachan”).  Still enjoyable, maybe the most enjoyable of the day (not that it had much to contend with…).

Photo 2018-03-22, 12 31 09 PM

It’s been threatening rain all day as well.  I’ve made it so far through the morning and muc of the afternoon (21 000 steps) without, despite it being forecast for days.  I don’t have much more to do today (other than pub study and dinner), but I’m hoping that my weather luck continues.  Off to the west coast tomorrow…

RECAP

Food:

Hatch and Sons in Dublin City Gallery – I’m a creature of habit.  Same food as previous, but NO carrot cake (oh, my heart).  Also, actually IN the gallery.

Mr Fox – OH MY GOD.  Really.   This place is by the same folks as The Pig’s Ear here in Dublin, which was recommended by Naomi, and is utterly amazing.  AND fairly reasonable in terms of price for value.  A bit odd, in that you have to ring to get in, but once you’re in, it’s fantastic.

The Black Sheep – Okay, I didn’t quite EAT here, but am presently having a sit and doing some work with their free wifi and a pint.  Because, Dublin.  It’s a Galway Bay Brewery bar, so there was a lot of their beer, and a fair number of tourists (being in a fairly downtown area), but my chippies were good and so was their beer.

Fish Shop – two tiny little spots down near the Liffey on the north side.  I went to the first on Queen St, where they do a 4 course for 39 euro, but they were fully booked (and would NOT take reservations last night for just one 😦 ).  However, their second shop, mostly walk-in, was just down the street and I snagged a spot along the back wall.  The sign on the window read “fish+chips+wine”.  What more do you want?  I left stuffed full of deliciousness, and would want to shout from rooftops.

To do:

National Botanic Gardens and Glasnevin Cemetery – though two separate sites, they are directly beside each other and connected by way of a little gateway.  The Botanic Gardens have both indoor and greenhouse areas; Wednesday was a chilly and windy day, but still beautiful, and DEFINITELY beautiful inside the Palm house 🙂  The cemetery is one of the largest in Dublin, and holds a number of Irish revolutionaries.

Jameson Distillery on Bow St – beautifully redone (renovated 2016/2017) while still preserving some of the old buildings.  The tour I took didn’t go throughout the distillery, but for 16 euro (student price!), you got information, a tasting, and a drink.

 

Failte go mBaile Atha Cliath (Welcome to Dublin)

For transparency’s sake, I googled that.

After a messy and whirlwind-ing few (many) months, the need to go away was weighing heavily on me.  This time, unlike other times I’ve gone away, there was no time to research and read up, learn about the hidden aspects of the city, the really solid restaurants and little underground locations, at least to the degree that I feel like I have in the past; I barely booked my accommodations in advance (and still managed to make a bit of a booboo on that one, but that story will come later).  But for better or worse, here I am.

The travel here went reasonably smoothly for me; the plane was quite delayed leaving Toronto, but considering I had no where to be, I wasn’t fussed.  The same, however, can’t be said for some of the folks I was travelling across the Atlantic with for the wedding; it led to anxiety (at the least) and missed connections (at the worst).  The only challenge I faced was staying up for the entirety of the morning and early afternoon.  Which brings me to world-question-one: why do we have red-eye flights, but check in at hotels is generally not until 2 or 3 in the afternoon?!  I arrived to my hotel at the crack of 7:15am, to learn that the room I was assigned was occupied, and I couldn’t get in until usual check-in time.  It wasn’t so bad at 7:15; in EST, it was only 3:15am, not a time I’m used to being awake at anymore, but not the latest.  I wouldn’t even be struggling yet if it were a night shift!  I had done a little bit of checking into things, and decided to walk from the hotel, located in North Dublin (Phibsborough) waaaaaaaay south to St Stephens Green to a cute little breakfast place I’d read about.  Looking on a map, you might think that’s going to be a good solid walk, and then I’ll have a walk around, and suddenly, it’ll be check in time… lesson learned: Dublin’s not that big.  I made it all the way from Phibsborough to St Stephens Green (with a wander through Temple Bar district and Trinity College) in an UNDER AN HOUR AND A HALF.  Normally, I’d be floored; more time to explore!  But today I could feel my energy draining, along with the chill when out of the sun (it was -2 today.  Where am I, home?!).

Dublin walk

I meandered through the Museum of Archeology and History and the National Library, both of which were lovely but a bit lost on me because of my tired focus on just getting to 2pm.  I decided to head back north around noon, thinking I’d go to Phoenix Park, but ended up diverting halfway there, because I was just too tired to enjoy it.  So I sat for a bit in the hotel lobby area, until a room was ready.  The hostess at the desk very graciously gave me a different room, the first that was ready in my price range, so I could just go and lie down!

My rest helped, enough to get me sorted for a few hours and out the door to eat dinner.  I found a WONDERFUL pub about 15 minutes walk away – so traditional in it’s look and feel, but the beer selection and the food were PHENOMENAL.  I left feeling so stuffed, I wondered if I’d be able to move.

L Mulligan

From my seat in the lower dining area at L Mulligan Grocers. HIGHLY recommended, though it’s a bit off the beaten path. Incredible food, (good) surprising beer menu, and 90’s top hits all night long.

It brings on an interesting feeling, travelling alone again.  Something I’ve done for going on 5 years now, after I booked a trip to New York by myself, after having made the decision that I wasn’t going to let the fact I was by myself stop me from seeing the world.  My travelling’s expanded since then, and will continue to, but it’s starting to be a bit lonely.  I was seated in the dining room at the restaurant this evening, not at the bar which is my usual dining-alone go-to, providing a built-in person to talk to in the bartender and possibly other patrons.  This time I was there, at a table, alone.  Added on is the fact that there was, for a time, a possibility I’d not be alone on this trip, so perhaps some compounding of all the feelings (me?  All the feelings?  You’ve GOT to be kidding).  Dublin’s also not necessarily what I expected.  It’s not a meeting/missing my expectations situation; I guess I really wasn’t sure what TO expect, but perhaps not quite this.  Perhaps more like London, but less sarcastic, or rather less DRY (still sarcastic).  It brought my trip to Istanbul to mind when I was thinking of this this afternoon: that was certainly a city that challenged me.  But I let go and leaned into it.  I stopped doing the “things I had to do” and did the things I want to do.  And I ended up having a wonderful time.

Tomorrow’s another day, and fueled by (hopefully!) a good rest.

RECAP

Food:

Hatch and Son’s at St Stephen’s Green – breakfast.  Not too expensive, terribly delicious, and the BAKING my god.  I’m fully planning on going to the one in the north end of Dublin tomorrow, and making a scene if they don’t have the carrot cake.

L. Mulligan Grocery – dinner.  AMAZING.  Traditional Irish pub look, but the food and drinks were fresh, local, all the things I adore.  Their beer list, while hosting a SLEW of Irish beer, was so diverse and offered a number of craft options.

Walks:

Half-sleepy walks around The Liffey, St Stephens, Trinity College, and threw the museum and library.  I recommend sleeping first, I was not paying attention to much.

There’s nothing to fear except fear itself. And cougars.

**LATE ENTRY – written August 3, evening**

Let it be known that NO ALLISON’S were harmed in the making of this blog post. Over the last week, my efforts have been coming together to work up from little half day to a full day hike. It was my goal this trip – to have one big hike just before I came home. After the amount of driving done in the last few days, and upon hearing that there is a 7k trail within a 10 minute’s walk from right here, I thought it was what today called for. Now. I can run 7k. I DO run 7k, often, and in not a bad amount of tim. But on pavement, in the city, generally pretty flat. And then I stop. The trail I hiked today, Angler’s Trail (or, it’s old name, Long Trail by the River) runs along the Stamp River. It was offered (suggested being perhaps too strong a word) by my host here, though she did mention, both when telling me about it on Monday and again today when I mentioned I was planning to do it, that there have been cougar sightings in the area in the last little while. It’s also 7km ONE WAY… and then you come BACK. The hike’s I’ve done, even the challenging side of Cypress Creek on the weekend with Bry, all felt reasonably well groomed. They were well used, well kept, and people were around. Shortly after I set out this afternoon into the woods, with almost a full 2L water pack, lunch (I remembered it this time!), and my first aid kit, armed with a “big stick” (I was advised to carry a big stick; to do what with if the cougar tried to attack I’m not really sure), I felt a little over my head. Can I do this? What if I come across this cougar that’s been sighted? I’d really prefer not to add “Fought off cougar” to my list of accomplishments in life. It was lovely, and interesting, but I will admit, much of my time was spent scanning the forest for eyes. It became increasingly difficult at times because this trail, unlike the others I’ve done, was overgrown and showed a lack of use (though not a lack of upkeep; it was clear that someone was coming by to cut through the fallen trees, or forge new paths where many trees had fallen). My big stick, in addition to being a cougar-fighter-offer also became somewhat of a bushwacking tool, aka my spiderweb get-ridder-of’er (I still walked through and into more spiderwebs than I care to mention, and am sure I came back with a whole lot of web in my hair – and probably more, but lets not think about that). I was also alone. Unlike all of the other trails I’d taken in the last week, I saw not a soul on my hike out, and one older woman, who lives in one of the farms around town (also armed with a stick – the fashion accessory of the day!) about halfway back. There were a few times I started cursing myself for going alone, on this 7km trail with no access points between the start and finish, where a cougar *might* be. I had wanted solitude; I got it, and now it was a little unnerving. However, I did use the solitude to my advantage. I yelled, and growelled, and screamed a few times, for both expressing those feelings inside of me, and to let all the woodland creatures hanging out that I’m here and, if not aggressive, I’m noisy. For a lot of the hike out, I seemed to have made up my mind that I’d finish the full trail and then walk back to the homestead along the road. I was okay with that; it would still be a good amount of exercise and I made it through the whole trail! When I made it to the near-end, the point at which the trail stops by this little rocky beach before heading upward to the road and out, I stopped for my lunch. I took my pack and my sweater off, sat down, and relaxed. A giant, beautiful bald eagle flew by me, across the river; I’d never seen one before in front of me, most certainly not in the wild, actually flying around. And there were no unfriendly animals! Not even any “evidence” of one that I could see. And then a strange thing happened. “It wasn’t so bad, those overgrown spots!” I thought. I realized that it had only taken me (“only”) 3 hours to go from the entrance to the falls portion of the trail to where I was now, meaning that I could get back in 3 hours (I’d stopped to go to the bathroom and had a few false starts as the trailhead pick up is not marked), rather than the 4 I was expecting (I thought the falls was an “add on” trail, not included in the total km). “I will go back through the woods!” My mind was made up, apparently. I started off again feeling confident – I *could* do this. I had my stick, I smacked it against some fallen logs to make noise, I felt good about things. And then “Oh, shit”. Actual shit. Was it new?? Or was it here before, and I just didn’t see it? That’s completely possible, I didn’t spend the entire time looking at the ground. And what IS it? It looked like something that would be left by a big dog, almost human, but without the smell. It didn’t look like bear, from what I have seen in pictures (and google NEVER lies), and I wasn’t interested in touching it to figure out if it was fresh or not. My heart rate and my step quickened a bit, and my vigalence increased. If this was fresh, it meant that something was around. I kept my eyes and ears open until I crossed the first bridge, and then let myself settle a little. I was just starting to feel relaxed again when I came across the older woman. She was dressed completely, with gloves and what looked like a toque on, as well! Very tall, slim, and very nice. She gave me the warning about the cougar (and then we both held our sticks up!), which made my relaxation dissipate a little bit. I knew that I was nearly halfway back to the beginning, but what if that was the wrong half? I started seeing little bits and pieces of the hike that I recalled from the beginning – the point after I’d been hiking an hour when I wondered if I’d come to the end already (very scant trail markings, and the map wasn’t the most helpful – it didn’t include bridge markers, and there were at least 4 bridges I crossed). I was close! I quickened, and started to feel this sense of accomplishment – that I DID It! I held onto my stick until what I thought was almost the end, and then threw it off into the brush with a flourish and a “Whooo!” … And then realized it was NOT almost the end. I felt naked without my stick! I had nothing to move overgrowth out of my way, nothing to clear spider webs, and, more importantly, nothing to potentially fight off a cougar with! I thought of picking up another one, and made a hasty decision to pick up one that was charred to the point of whiteness flecked with black charcoal, thinking it was birch or something. It made my hand all sorts of beautiful colours, but it was something and it last until the end of the trail. The end of the trail! I saw the open clearing of the roadway – I’d made it back to the start of the Long Trail! I did it! In a total of 6 hours! I felt … wonderful. And celebrated with ice cream. 6 hours and many emotions. I felt fear a lot, questioning, pride, joy, and a ton of other things. There were times when my mind was a million miles away, thinking of things that had nothing to do with what lay in front of me, and there were times when I realized, after stretches of time uncounted, that I’d thought nothing at all, and just been. I philosophized a few times on fear, though; not a new thought, likely not at all, but something that kept coming to mind – the interplay between fear and bravery. I know I’ve thought this before, but every time I find myself into these situations, they come up again. Being brave does not mean one is fearless. One who has no fear… in my opinion, that’s someone who is not brave but stupid – there’s so much to fear (large wild cats who don’t know that I love my little cat at home being one of them. An aside – to deal with my fear, along with giggling about the *other* kind of cougars in the world, I kept thinking that perhaps I would have some kind of magic power over the cougar, and she bound up to me while meowing the loudest meow in the history of meows and then fall on her back and show her tummy for belly rubs. Totally not realistic, but I was trying to take my mind off of realism for the moment). Fear, though unpleasant, keeps us alive. It makes me check over someone completely before I trust them belaying me when I climb (and remind them – sometimes a few times, if needed – to take in my slack); it makes me take well lit roads in the dead of the night, rather than the faster alleyway near the co-op; and while it did not leave me to have the blissful wander through the woods today, it made me observe the landscape because there may have been a predator out there. Being afraid doesn’t mean one’s not brave; one who is brave will chose to do things in spite of those things. I think of this in so many parts of my life – for example, my decision to give up working full time and go back to school to a profession that may be saturated by the time I get there. I will have only my reputation and my work ethic to help me, rather than a guarantee. I will have myself. And so many others. Today, I chose to try something I have never done, in spite of the fears that were coming up in my belly. And I did it; no cougars, no bears, only some feces and a bald eagle seen.

 

Creature Comforts

**LATE ENTRY – written August 3 morning**

Yesterday, I did the long and windy drive into Tofino (but, this time I did it in daylight!). I had to break Buddy’s (the dog’s) heart to not come and run around in the clearing and play, as I set out at 9:20-ish for what ended up being a 2 hour drive of, again, up and down and up and down and around and around and around and around. This time, being in daylight, I actually got to SEE the scenery around me; it’s breathtaking. Long stretches of mountains covered in cedars, lakes opening up beside the highway, there were times where it was really hard to keep my eyes on the road! I felt badly at times, as I would catch something in my eye, my attention would be gone, and my foot would be off the gas, dropping my speed by sometimes 5km within seconds – the folks behind me must have been frustrated. I wondered a number of times if the people who live out here just get used to it? It’s their everyday, unlike mine of towers and cement and a glow of lights at all hours of the day. I wondered if they would be as astounded by my everyday as I am by theirs.

The drive in total to the Pacific Rim Visitor’s Centre, just before Pacfic Rim National Park (and about a half hour from Tofino itself) took in total 2h, but that also took in time where I actually pulled off the highway at Ellis Creek to look around (I figured it was time to do so, rather than gawk around across the dashboard) and some construction (just like home!). I bought my visitor’s pass to the park and used the ACTUAL BATHROOM WITH A TOILET (!!!) before setting out again to do a few little walks before my spa afternoon. I had hoped to get three in, but finished two walks, the Bog trail and the Rainforest trail, and though the actual trails didn’t take long, the parking and driving between led me to have only a little over an hour before having to be at the spa. I made the decision to try another little trail in town, so drove along the way to Tofino, parked at the trailhead, and made it about 5 minutes in before realizing, nope, I probably don’t have time for this either! I had seen a glimpse of what the parking situation was like (brutal) in town, so turned around and looked for parking. And looked. And looked. There was a handful of spots to be had about 4 blocks away from Main Street (which may not sound like much, but 4 blocks was about the width of town), wandered to get a lunch of coffee+cookie after realizing I’d forgotten my protein bar and fruit back in Port Alberni (of note: the latte from Toffino Coffee Company was good; the cookie was AMAZING), and then wandered to near the spa and a few of the lookouts.

The main area of Tofino is quite small, and packed with little tourist shops, ice cream spots, surf rental places (apparently the best surfing in Canada is off the coast of Tofino), and bed and breakfast’s. It reminded me of the downtown area of so many little northern spots in Ontario. It was also FILLED with tourists. I did a bit of wandering before my appointment, but was disappointed I didn’t have as much time on the trails as I’d thought I’d have (two hours goes by FAST!). But my spa time was worth it. I had booked a special at one of the small spas on Main Street, for a sauna, massage, and facial for about $50 less than what I researched as the usual price. The sauna was a little private room and then I had all treatments by the same person, who ended up being from Oshawa! Of COURSE – I come all the way out to the very corner of the country and met someone who went to high school 10 meters away from me. It was such a relaxing treat, and I felt fantastic afterwards. I am a person who, as much as I like my activity (running, climbing up things, wandering through the woods), I also love to be pampered. I left with (apparently?) a glow, a plan to finish up that hike that I started into, and a dinner idea.

It had been on/off grey most of the day, kind of like today is starting out to be (also of note: it’s cloudy, so my phone is only getting 3G connection here. Because, clouds). The sun would try to peak through, but then hide away again. When I started out on the Tonquin Trail, it was grey and foggy. The fog was thicker than anything I’ve seen before, almost as though you could reach out and touch it as it moved across the bay. The Tonquin trail takes you to two little beaches just at the tip of Tofino – the first is long, split in two parts by large boulders, about a storey and a half up in the air, but easily climbable. There were no more than about 10 people in total in the beach, but it still seemed populated, despite being a fairly large space. The second beach, Middle Beach, is found through weaving through a few more trails along the way, which scale upwards and downwards through the cliffs. It’s much, much smaller, maybe 20m across, but surrounded by cliffs and boulders against the sea; and, when I was there, it was empty. The fog was thick around the beach, so thick you couldn’t see anything farther than a short swimming length out from the shoreline, except this white velvety curtain. I felt like I was completely alone on the earth in this little spot. I climbed up to the top of one of the boulders to the side of the beach and sat there for about 30 minutes, alone with my thoughts and myself. In this time, the sun started to peek out – at first a few rays between the clouds, reminding me of what you’d see in old religious paintings, and then fully, burning off the fog to show that there was in fact an island in front of this tiny beach. The sun comes out again.

I didn’t want to leave, but I thought I should get heading back when I realized that it was 5:40 – I wanted to try dinner at the restaurant, Sobo, recommended by Angela, my lovely fellow Oshawonian here in Tofino, and had the 2h drive back to my little RV ahead of me. Hiking back out to the car and then driving down the way to park again, I found the restaurant fairly easily, took a seat at the bar, and had a lovely dinner, topped off with a ridiculous chocolate cookie (that was all that could fit into my stomach by that point). I went for a bit of a walk to try and digest my dinner, but only realized that I was suuuuuper full and no amount of walking would digest it all. And set out.

For someone who doesn’t drive at home, I amazed myself at how at ease I was. I also knew what to expect in terms of the winding and rising/falling roads, AND the scenery. I had thought that I would stay in town to watch the sunset, but decided I wanted to reduce as much as possible the in-the-dark driving as I could (I’d had enough on Sunday, thanks!), but I was able to catch glimpses over Kennedy lake as I drove home. Between the clouds that had rolled in, rays of red-yellow blazing light shone through, lighting up the lake below. There were people pulled over around the lake, and I thought of it, but there was no camera that could catch what my eyes were seeing at that point.

Chasing Waterfalls

**LATE ENTRY – written August 1, evening**

24 hours ago, I was on the ferry. Now, I’m sitting in my pajamas, inside the little RV (it’s windy outside *slash* my computer cord doesn’t reach that far), watching the sky turn from light to dark blue, awaiting the stars on this clear night and listening to Fleetwood Mac…

Life is good right now.

This morning was a slow one. I can still hardly believe I slept solidly until 8:30, but was up, eating, and looking around shortly thereafter. I met Heather, the proprietress, her son Cole (and Isla, her daughter, from afar), and her three AMAZING dogs (dogs!!!!). I got used to the outhouse (the little inside toilet is NOT working right now, so it’s all outhouse and no liquids after 9pm). I made a few plans. And I set out for an afternoon in the woods.

I spent the entire afternoon wandering the trails in the Port Alberni area (and driving to/from, but happily there was more wandering than driving. And it was light out), sighting a total of three waterfalls, including the adorable Hole In The Wall, a literal hole in this massive uprising of what looked like perhaps slate that the Rogers Creek (I believe) now runs through. Nothing exceptionally challenging, but certainly lovely. I went to the aforementioned Hold in the Wall area, spending about 2 hours in total wandering every inch of the the various trails. Most quite easy, for a hiking novice like me, but lovely. After that, I decided to go to Cathedral Grove, this infamous area of McMillan Provincial Park with ancient cedars that, at one point, covered the underlying forest floor like a canopy, giving the appearance of a cathedral ceiling. Now, because of storms and age, the landscape has begun to alter as some of the trees come down, and new ones come up, but there are still so, so many that it’s magical. There was also many, many little plaques with loads of information, so, educational, too! While driving back, I decided to stop at the entrance to the Stamp Falls trail (it is actually a stone’s throw from where I’m staying). Hilariously, though, I think I saved the most challenging hike to the end – it went up and down the beginning ascent of one of the nearby mountains. I wasn’t sweating AS much as after the Grouse, but it absolutely required more oomph than either of the previous two today. No, clearly I never save the easy for the end. The reward, though, both Stamp Falls and the lake it feeds into downriver, were worth it.

I returned to the trailer to shower, dinner on the little patio out front here to Lyon Bridges, and an attempt to read that was cut short by first Buddy, one of the dogs here on the property who, like more than a few big dogs I know thinks he’s a lap dog and wants to jump all over you, and then by the wind. I’m fading fast, but forcing myself to stay awake for the show of stars.

It’s something. I feel at home in big cities. Toronto is my home, and I love it; places like New York and London give me a sense of ease. But here, in this place where I have yet to see something as commercial as a Starbucks, where almost every single person I walked by on the trails said a hearty Hello to me, I feel such ease. As I said earlier today, this idea of being alone in the woods, that is the meaning of peace to me. I don’t know if it’s here, being out on the west coast on the Island, or if it’s just this amount of rest relaxation, but I got the same feelings this evening, while having a relaxed dinner outside with the valley in my eye line, that I did driving through the sleepy streets of Barcelona when I’d just arrived. Calm, happy, excited, all at once. I didn’t want to leave then, and I don’t want to leave now. Not yet, at least – I could stay for so much longer, and I wish I could.